We started our walk from Dashashwamedh Ghat and reached Malviya Bridge. After crossing the bridge, we reached Besant College Road. First, we visited the ‘Varuna–Ganga Sangam’ and visited the nearby Lord Vishnu temple. While coming back, we stopped at Rajkamal’s shop to have some snacks as we were very hungry. There we saw, other than snacks, traditional sweets such as Lia ke Laddu (puffed rice balls), Groundnut Chikki, Ramdana Patti, Chini ka Patta etc., etc. We requested ten rupees Besan ki Papdi, which is my personal favorite namkeen. It was very tasty.

If you roam around Varanasi, you will find numerous shops selling traditional sweets and snacks.

Lotus Flowers – This photo was taken at Phool Bazar, Bansphatak in Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh).

Rs. 5/- per Lotus Flower. It is offered to Lord Shiva, Goddess Saraswati, and Lord Hanuman.

Madar (Calotropis gigantea) ki Mala – This photo was taken at Phool Bazar, Bansphatak in Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh).

Rs. 5/- per Madar (मदार) garland. Upon query, I was told by the shopkeeper it is offered to Lord Shankar.

Knowledge enhanced.

Ganth Gobhi (Knolkhol) – This photo was taken at Old Dashashwamedh Road in Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh)

Cost of Ganth Gobhi – Rs. 30 per kg.

Banaras is famous for paan, as we all know. As there are numerous paan shops, I was in search of one of the best paan shops. Assi Ghat was a nearby location, and we two were riding a rickshaw. Upon a query from a passer-by, knowledge was enhanced.

In Lanka, there is Keshav Pan Bhandar, and at Godowlia Chow,k there is Gama Paan Bhandar.

As Lanka was nearby, we decided to continue our ride. The shop is almost at the corner of Nagwan Road, Lanka crossing. I was amazed to watch more than 10 people waiting for their paan. I was another to join the waiting list. Our order was Meetha Paan. After ten minutes of waiting, it was served. Cost Rs. 15/- per paan. And the taste and quality are excellent. Worth waiting. Usually, when we have paan, it stays for a long time inside our mouth, but this paan melted so fast, and the flavor remained for a longer time. It was Maghai for sure, and the preparation was the real talent.

Address: Keshav Pan Bhandar, Nagwan Road, Sant Ravidas Gate, Lanka, Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh).

Timings: 6 am – 12 night.

Upon query, I was told this shop is 60 years old, but their ancestor’s oldest shop is at Vishwanath Gali, near Dashashwamedh Ghat.

We two were near Lanka and were deciding to return home, but then I inquired with a shopkeeper about a famous shop selling ‘Laung Lata‘ as I had little knowledge about a shop selling one of the best Launglata in Lanka Crossing. I was guided to visit Lanka and visit Pahalwan Sweets (Lanka). Thank you – said I.

Within minutes, I was there, but first, the request was for two plates, both with one Samosa and one Kachori. It was served with tomato chutney. Delicious – the chatni. Kachori was tightly filled with ‘Sattu‘ and was very good in taste. And then I requested one ‘Launglata’. Within Banaras, you will see most of the sweet shops selling Launglata, but for this 65-year-old shop, I will say – fantastic preparation.

Samosa – Rs. 4/-

Kachori – Rs. 5

And Launglata – Rs. 8/-

Timings: 9 am – 2 am

I was amazed when the owner said a few times, even till 4 in the morning.

And why is Pahalwan the name of the shop?

Because my father was a wrestler (pahalwan) – The owner said, showing a photograph.

One day during the evening hours, we, three friends, were on our way to have Dahi wale Gol Gappe. At Bansphatak inside a small lane (Hauz Katora), I saw a colorful shop with the display board ‘Baba Thandai‘. I entered as I was interested in Thandai but whether it is ‘Bhaang ki Thandai’ or only ‘Thandai’ prepared with dry fruits, saffron, milk, etc., etc. – The question.

The owner of the 60-year-old shop enhanced my knowledge.

He said – though he serves Thandai only prepared with milk, saffron, dry fruits, etc., etc. but yes, Bhaang is also available for FREE.

We do not take Bhang. We requested two glasses of Thandai and later one more glass as it was delicious.

Rs. 35/- the cost of one big Thandai glass.

Timings: 1 pm – 10 pm

One should visit.

We were walking in the lanes and by lanes of Varanasi and saw a display board talking about Blue Lassi (Kachowri Gali Chowk) 100 meters away. We followed the route till we reached the shop. It was full of customers. We check the menu. Apple Lassi, Banana Lassi, Strawberry Lassi, Chocolate Lassi, Mixed Fruit Lassi, and many such flavors are available. I was confused about which one to have. I requested the owner busy with making Lassi for customers to prepare Lassi as per his choice.

He replied – How can I decide when I don’t know you. Stay at least for 10 days, and then only I will be able to decide.

I had a smile. The decision was taken – Mixed Fruit Lassi.

Served in a large Kulhad. One of the best Lassi I had till-date. Full of calories because till the evening I was not hungry.

Cost – Rs. 85/-. One should try Lassi at Blue Lassi Shop if visiting Varanasi.

The shop is 70 years old.

Timings: 9 am to 9 pm.

Landmark: Burning Ghat

Note: Blue Lassi is always full of national/international tourists.

Almost opposite St. Thomas Church (Godowlia Chowk) is Kashi Chat Bhandar, one of the most famous shops for Chat in Varanasi. It is approx. The 50-year-old shop opens at 3 pm and closes around 10 pm (365 days a year).

We stopped to have Aaloo Tikki. The waiting time was approx. 15 minutes, but when Aaloo Tikki was served, it was very, very good. Cost Rs. 22/- per plate. And one day we had Chura Matar packed for home, but my personal favorite is Chaat, of course.

Update

Recently, during the Varanasi visit in December 2024, I found the price list of Kashi Chat Bhandar as follows:

Kashi Chat Bhandar Price List (in Rs.)

Paani Puri – 40
Dahi Puri – 60
Aaloo Tikki – 60
Chura Matar – 60
Palak Patta Chat – 60
Samosa Chat – 60
Dahi Bhalla – 60
Bhalla Papdi – 70
Papdi Chat – 60
Gulab Jamun – 50
Kulfi Faluda – 80
Mix Chat – 60
Plain Samosa – 40